What are you working on at the moment?
Draping, cutting, sewing, casting, fitting, editing… Lots to do, and not much of a social life lately haha.
At first, I didn't really know how to react to your collection. I didn't know whether to find it incredibly violent or to read it as an ode to love. What led you to make a collection like this? How did you go about creating a balance between life, death, love and eroticism?
I love the idea that you could perceive both sides of this work. For me, it is all about finding the perfect balance between the elements you mentioned, in order to create a kind of beauty that is both harsh and romantic. Something brutal and vulnerable at the same time, but always seductive.
Why did you choose to work on flamenco, and on dance in general? Does it have a particular meaning for you?
I'm Spanish and, whether we like it or not, we grow up with our origins in our blood. But I fell in love with flamenco as a little boy, because my mother danced it every Saturday morning at home.
I think it is one of the most beautiful and spiritual Spanish traditions. It can be extremely romantic, a pure expression of love and happiness, as well as the darkest and most wretched allegory of death. Flamenco says all of this very powerfully, with elegance and passion. How could you not be captivated? For me, flamenco is a complete art form.
Are there other cultural references in your work?
I draw my inspiration from everywhere. From cinema to sculpture, from Surrealism to Dadaism, by way of the different eras of fashion. I also like to study the way people move. And of course, I find that in the world of dance, from the Ballets Russes to Japanese butoh, by way of folk dances.
I draw my inspiration from everywhere. From cinema to sculpture, from Surrealism to Dadaism, by way of the different eras of fashion.
What is the message of your latest collection?
That you don't need to shout to be heard. But I'm also very curious to know what emotions people feel in front of my work, rather than what I wanted to convey. That is much more important, isn't it?
How have your personality and your cultural background influenced your work? I know your family holds an immense place in your life, how does that translate into your collections?
In Spain, culture and tradition are deeply rooted in everyday life. I was immersed in it throughout my childhood and it comes through, consciously and unconsciously, in what I create, whether in a seemingly insignificant detail or in a more conceptual element. I also draw inspiration from my grandparents' wardrobes, and our last Christmas dinner together really looked like The House of Bernarda Alba. We were all in black! That is probably why I love black so much!
What did you want to be as a child?
Ah, I could honestly write a trilogy to answer that question! My very first passion was the sea. I was literally obsessed with Commander Cousteau and, with my best friend, I wanted to open a sort of "oasis" for dolphins. Then I wanted to be a TV news presenter, then an actor, a singer, a dancer, and, believe it or not, I even thought about becoming a doctor. Then fashion came into my life, another kind of show, it seems to me, and maybe one day I will finally get up on stage after all.
Was it easy for you to get where you are today?
Not at all. I come from a modest family and from a very small town of fewer than a thousand people, in the north of Spain. So I had to work hard and fight to get here, and this is only the beginning. I have the will to go very far. The sky's the limit, right?
What is your wildest dream?
I have dreams, but the most important thing for me is to be healthy and happy, surrounded by my friends, my family and my other half. If I can do what I love and make a living from it while creating things that are beautiful and meaningful, then that will be the dream. I would also love to broaden my horizons. Maybe direct a play, make a film, collaborate with different artists, design costumes for the Paris Opera… I would like to follow in the footsteps of Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Most artists have a muse. Do you?
I don't have a muse as such. And besides, many of the people I admire are already dead. But yes, I think of certain people when I create, for example singers like Tamino or Caroline Polachek.
You are young compared to most people who work in fashion. How do you feel about that? What do you think of other people your age working in the fashion industry? Do you think they will bring about change?
Many of us are trying to challenge the system in our own way. We, the young creatives, want a fairer and more ethical industry. It is our responsibility, as newcomers, to try to bring about change in that direction.
Do you think fashion is really transitioning towards a more sustainable industry, or is it just marketing?
There is a lot of marketing, a lot of brands use it to polish their image. But the reality is sometimes different. There is greenwashing, and I would like journalists to investigate this subject more.
At AO, we try to be as responsible as possible. We use top quality fabric offcuts from renowned couture houses, and we only produce ten pieces of each design. We don't believe in the virtue of stock and we are fiercely opposed to overproduction. But we don't especially communicate about all the efforts we have made since the beginning. Why would we? It should be the norm.
Last question: what would you like to say to the young people reading this interview?
If you are passionate and you have a clear vision of the kind of person you want to be, go for it. Don't let anyone tell you that you won't make it because of your social background or the color of your skin. Work hard. Don't give up. Have fun. Don't compare yourself to others. Trust yourself and listen to what your gut tells you. Never give up, even in the hardest moments.
Honestly, these are things I tell myself every day. And yet I'm not a kid anymore, hahaha!
