Fashion's digital transformation in the past decade has entirely reinvented (amongst other innumerable things) the ways in which we access, perceive and connect with the industry. With the presence of independent spaces such as obscure discussion forums to obsessive archive accounts, there has been a paradigm shift in who genuine tastemakers and influencers can be. There is an endless wealth of knowledge and well informed opinions accessible to anyone who is curious enough.
Meme accounts are a great example of original content creation that can bring together fashion enthusiasts in a refreshingly laid-back manner through constant commentary and insights on industry ongoings. If you're reading this magazine, chances are you already follow @ideservecouture on Instagram. Since the account's fairly recent emergence, its popularity amongst the fashion community has exploded. We talk to Hanan Besovic, the name behind the page beloved by high-profile insiders and passionate amateurs alike, about his views on the evolution and democratization of fashion.
Following the inner workings of the fashion industry has become much more accessible in the past decade. Do you think that the new wave of online discourse is expanding the definition of fashion criticism? Is there still a clear distinction between the two or do you see the lines blurring?
When we talk about fashion criticism, it has changed drastically in the last thirty years. From the way of talking about it, to form and overall content. If you are looking for fashion criticism in the pages of Vogue or other big fashion publications, you are looking in the wrong place. From a business aspect, major fashion publications cannot be honest about fashion since they are being used to sell fashion. They would be biting the hand that feeds them... literally. That is when we turn to social media and to people that want to talk about fashion and discuss it in detail without them being tied to a magazine.
A great example is HFT [High Fashion Talk], their Facebook and Instagram page that asks people their opinion on the collection and opens up a space for a dialog and possibility to learn. I am not a fashion critic and I don't claim to be, but I think it's a shame that they are not allowed to be honest. They are honest with their inner circle but publicly they are at a risk of losing their job. That is how vicious this industry is.
Do you think that fashion memes are part of this evolution? Who do you aim to connect with through your work?
Memes are a different type of fashion criticism. They are more of a commentary than a criticism. For fashion folks, memes are Moschino: making fun and using satire to show how absurd and ridiculous fashion can be. They are a great tool to discuss fashion because people respond great to it. It's fashion and humor. But when it comes to serious issues in fashion, memes take a different approach. In my review about the terrific job Thebe Magugu is doing, I wrote that fashion is addicted to an "ideal", fashion loves to look perfect. But it is far from that. That's where the memes come in, because they can make light of the situation but also they can make you realize the situation in depth. Just because it's funny doesn't change the context of the message, and behind every meme there is a message. They are being used as a marketing tool at this point and more brands see the potential in them.
How did you become interested in fashion, and what led to the creation of your account @ideservecouture?
I first discovered fashion when I saw Alexander McQueen's spring summer 2010 collection called "Plato's Atlantis". That collection got me hooked on fashion. After that I wanted to see more and found his fall 2009 collection titled "Horn of Plenty" and fell in love with fashion 100%. I started following fashion for a decade as I witnessed the brilliance of Rick Owens, the interesting approach of Raf at Dior and the sculptural masterpieces of Zac Posen, and started talking about it on my personal Instagram. Little did I know that my target market and the interest from people on my personal Instagram was zero, especially because my personal Instagram consists of acquaintances, close friends and relatives. And my aunt does not know who Hubert de Givenchy is. I realized I had to find people that share my passion. I created @ideservecouture, and started talking about fashion as I was learning about fashion myself. I did reviews and realized that people want to have a light and funny approach to fashion. And that is how it took off.
How do you analyze a fashion collection?
I don't think that there is a formula to analyze a collection. I take everything into consideration because everything matters. I want to know where the show was, who was there, what inspired the show, what was the message, choice of models etc. Everything matters at this point. There are influencers that just show up to the show to take a picture and share a story and they are doing a great job at it. My approach to clothes is different because I want to know the meaning behind it and the story. So taking everything into consideration and giving my opinion on it is what I like to do. I never want to bore people with fashion, that is why I try to use humor as much as I can.
Everything is faster now: designers have less time to make emotionally driven collections, there are more copies than references, there are more momentary gimmicks than memorable messages, there is immediate reaction online, and everyone has an opinion. What do you think of the way the industry has been adapting to these challenges? And is this good for the future of fashion?
I think we should say that fashion is TOO fast at this point. We are closing on New York Fashion Week and there are at least 8 collections coming out today, with the Video Music Awards tonight and the Met Gala tomorrow. There is just too much going on. How do you expect people to appreciate your collection when you have 7 other designers showing the same day? It becomes a task to make it to all these shows. Valentino did a terrific job for their couture fall 2021: they showed it outside of the calendar and they moved their couture show to Venice. They guaranteed themselves a minimum of 3 days of media coverage because everyone was talking about it. And all of that being said, it's the competitive environment of fashion where everyone is trying to outdo each other. Especially now, when the MOMENT lasts for 1 or 2 days.
The true MOMENTS are rare these days. There is a difference between a new MOMENT and a true MOMENT. Let me explain it. A true MOMENT would be the McQueen 1999 show when Shalom Harlow stood in the middle of a platform with robots spray painting her dress. A new MOMENT includes a nepotism model just standing in front of a white background and getting praised for showing up. As far as an opinion on fashion goes, everyone should have an opinion. I don't understand fashion designers that are upset that people have an opinion of their clothes. Newsflash! People always had an opinion of the clothes, they just have a platform to express their opinion now.
What are your thoughts on the democratization of fashion? Can desire for luxury exist without exclusivity?
Fashion should be inclusive; it is not just for the elite anymore. We are all part of fashion whether you want to admit it or not. A great book by Gilles Lipovetsky called "The Empire of Fashion" talks exactly about these issues. If you are making decisions on what you will wear when you put clothes on in the morning, you are unaware that you are part of fashion. If you see someone with cool shoes, you are a part of fashion. If you try out a new sweater and like how it feels, you are a part of fashion. Everyone has their group in fashion, they just might not be aware of it. Fashion should be democratized; it should be inclusive. We are not in the 80s where elitism rules. Elitism and the old ways of the fashion industry got us to this place where we have a few people in fashion that can make or break your career, and that is simply wrong.
What would be the one thing you would like to change if you could influence the creative process of designers today?
Give the clothes meaning. Different designers have different approaches to fashion: some are looking at it from a reference aspect, some from the financial aspect, some from the artistic aspect. I would love to see more meaning in clothes. A great example would be Thebe Magugu, a South African designer who uses his clothes to tell a story about South Africa. His spring 2021 collection was inspired by spies during Apartheid. He is telling a story and is bringing his heritage and history through his clothes. Unfortunately, fashion is not as much about art and meaning as it is about money and profit. That is why we are witnessing many collections that are not being well accepted, but could easily be hyped if done the right way.
And if you could influence the taste of consumers?
Taste is hard to influence because everyone's taste is different. What we can influence is the awareness of the customer. Be aware of who you are supporting with your hard-earned money. There is a list of designers that I would never buy from. Not because of the aesthetic but because of them. The person behind the clothes also influences the selling aspect of clothes.
And when it comes to those designers, I think it's shocking how fashion turns a blind eye. And they always do that when it's one of their own.
